This is a nice sounding and good-looking pedalboard, IMO. The Gig Rig Quartermaster looks nice and also appears good on paper…
However:
I remain unsold on using active effects switchers.
Here’s why:
- Every single plug + jack have their own inherent capacitances. They’re significant. I have actually spent some time and money buying a variety of plugs and jacks from Neutrik, Puretone, Switchcraft, Analysis Plus, Kimber, WBT, Cardas, Etc. I’ve measured the capacitance, resistance, and contact resistance for every one I’ve chosen over the years. I have empirical data in my notebook on this. I may choose to publish it eventually…I’m in no mood to argue about it on the Internet today, though.
- Jack + plug + cable capacitances are in parallel with each other and thus add together. This gets out of hand quickly. It amounts to several tens of picofarads for each jack + plug + cable combination in the audio signal path! Poor little signal…it never did nothin’ to nobody!
- Add in all the small contact resistances and losses at each jack, plug, solder joint, surfaces, etc. This includes the relay contacts/solder pads/etc…
- Add a buffer you say? Well, I did. I added (2) Creation Audio Labs MK4.23’s at different places in fact to see what would happen. That thing can drive 50 feet of 14 gauge extension cord as a somewhat respectable guitar cable. I shit you not. I still experienced some unacceptable audible/tactile losses (when in TBP mode and/or at unity gain only) as opposed to not using the switcher with any combination of buffers/pedals. The CAL exhibits a small but noticeable loss on it’s own when in true bypass mode from its own jacks/plugs. Turning it on, this is minimized and probably unmeasurable. At above unity gain, the CAL mitigates any losses as long as you “drive” the switcher with it. Choosing something similar should also work.
- This isn’t even considering the oxidation on each surface which amounts to another small loss, depending on how caked in cat shit or kid dirt our guitar rooms are…haha.
- I am definitely not taking into account all the nuances & quirks of each pedal design losses either…
So, I sold the active switcher. Meh. I know. I’m ultra picky and most players don’t give a crap about what I may consider to be a compromise. Most people want convenience. I get that. They are right. Active switchers do work well. But they are not quite up to the performance standards they’re being marketed as, IMO.
So, if you’re honestly wanting the very highest signal integrity/performance possible, the most versatility, the least associated losses, noise & interference, I believe I am around 4 Logs of Correct here (99.99%). The less jacks and plugs, the better. The best option is to use the least pedals in your signal chain which yield the results you want. And if you’re inclined, hardwire everything together, buffer it, and use a linear power supply for each pedal. Get rid of the jacks, plugs, and cables altogether.
But if you can tolerate some small compromises here and there plus value convenience over the best signal integrity possible, switchers are a doubtless an excellent option. But you should understand what they truly are, and that they are not unadulterated “pristine” signal preserving totems of integrity. The are convenient.
So, I came up with some rules of thumb for myself when building pedalboards.
- Somewhere around a maximum of 5-7 pedals in the signal chain. The less, the better.
- Active switching prioritizes convenience over having the highest possible signal integrity & tactile performance
- Include a pedal w/ a buffer somewhere near the very beginning of the signal chain
- Have a buffered pedal near the end of the signal chain too
- I like the following order for a (1) amp setup: Guitar into Gain/OD into Modulation into Delay into Reverb/Tremolo into Amplifier #1
- I like the following order for (2) amp setup stereo/wet/dry: Guitar into Vibe/Phase into Compressor into Gain/OD into Buffer/Boost into Passive Splitter to: Output #1 into (Amp #1), Output #2 into Modulation into Delay into (Amp #2).
- I like the following order for (2) amp setup dual mono: Guitar into Vibe/Phase into Compressor into Gain/OD into Buffer/Boost into Modulation into Delay into Reverb into Passive Splitter to Amp #1 + Amp #2.
- Have a very clean boost right between the Overdrive(s) and Passive Splitter in a multi amp setup. If you don’t have one, you could use a buffered multiple OD pedal set extremely clean too.
- I don’t do “Texas Tone Del Maximo” 3 Amp Setups… Gerald did this well; I’ve tried it and failed…it can be way too much.
- Coaxial interconnects are fine. Directional interconnects are also fine.
What you see below are my very favorite, highest performing, maximally diverse pedalboards which are as simple as can be. They are both nearly perfect small pedalboards. Have fun!
I also like Robert & Toyah…
